Looking for somewhere unique to spend the night, surrounded by fresh air and excitement?
Why not sleep on the side of a cliff in a portaledge — a sturdy wall hammock used by climbers for overnight stays at high altitudes.
The experience we tried is perfect for everyone – whether you’re a seasoned climber or a beginner – looking to enjoy stunning panoramas. The Vercors region provides an ideal backdrop for this adventure, making it a must-try for those looking to connect with nature in an exhilarating way.
Curious about how it works?
“We know how to climb roughly 5a-5b, but not in the lead. Is that enough?” When we contacted Benoit Frénéat, the climbing instructor supervising us, we had no idea what to expect from this night on the cliffs. Where will the portaledge be set up? How will we settle in once we’ve reached the impressive “camp bed” hanging from the cliff?
Accessible to everyone
Benoit reassures us right away: we don’t need to be expert climbers for this night on the cliffs, or even know how to climb at all. And there was a good explanation: we reach our bivouac from above, following a half-hour walk through the forest. However, you’ll need to be reasonably fit, as carrying the portaledge, which weighs nearly nine kilos, is no small task.
We arrive at the top of the cliff, overlooking the village of Choranche with the entrance to the famous caves below, rewarded by the effort. The view from the small rocky plateau, perched high above a vast cirque, is breathtaking. And as for the constant, graceful dance of swallows, we’ll have plenty of time to admire them later.
As much as we’d love to try out the portaledge, a part of us tells ourselves that we’re just as happy on solid ground. Do we really have to venture onto the cliff face? Thankfully, assembling our suspended bed (done from the summit plateau) keeps us grounded in the present moment, preventing us from overthinking. Deep down, we know the reward will be even greater once we conquer this fear.
Once assembled, Benoit secures the portaledges to the cliff face as we pause to take in the extraordinary landscape unfolding around us.
Now comes the moment we’ve both anticipated and dreaded: stepping into the void to reach our base camp for the night! With our climbing harnesses and helmets securely in place, we abseil down to the portaledges.
No need to worry – the portaledges are only three or four metres below the plateau and Benoit is right there with us for this brief descent.
A bit nervous, we made a small mistake, which only resulted in us landing on the portaledge a little sooner than expected – but no harm done!
Now, comfortably seated in our luxury hammock with 280 metres of open space beneath our feet, we’re much more at ease than we ever imagined. The portaledge feels incredibly sturdy, giving us confidence. We take in the extraordinary view, now bathed in the soft light of late afternoon. Tentatively, we even dare to swing our legs over the edge of the portaledge. Although we’re always securely attached to a safety lanyard anchored to the wall, we’re not about to push our luck!
Any lingering nervousness soon gives way to a growing sense of freedom. We feel incredibly fortunate to be able to take in the breathtaking rocky cirque and bask in the peacefulness of nature, broken only by the soft whisper of a warm July breeze.
As darkness fell, we tucked into a delicious meal delivered in a cleverly designed picnic basket. Nestled in the vast rocky cirque, we enjoyed delicate salmon wraps, sweet and savoury bites, and even a glass of red wine — all of which tasted even more delicious in such a breathtaking setting!
A magical night under the open sky
Back in our open-air bed, we couldn’t bring ourselves to fall asleep right away. Instead, we gazed up at the stars as they gradually appeared above us. Far from the city’s light pollution — and its heat, which was a welcome relief on the sweltering day we chose for this experience — we soaked in the majesty of the night sky.
Though the portaledge hammock is fairly comfortable, getting a good night’s sleep can be tricky. There’s an underlying fear (though unfounded) of dropping things into the void, and the straps and ropes make their presence known whenever you shift. The wind, too, makes itself felt as it sweeps up the cliff. But none of that really matters. Watching the sunrise peek over the edge of the cliff is a magical sight, worth every moment of discomfort. After facing the fear of sleeping suspended in mid-air, you might find yourself almost reluctant to return to solid ground!
