Sixty years ago, writer and mountain guide Roger Cagnac envisioned a spectacular route around the Écrins and Oisans, creating a true sanctuary for mountaineering enthusiasts.
The result is the GR®54, a legendary trail that weaves through inhabited valleys and remote peaks. It traverses moraines, glaciers, alpine meadows, high-altitude steppes, glacial lakes, hanging passes and vertiginous paths.
Featuring exhilarating and technically challenging terrain, the trail showcases stunning sites like the Meije, the Râteau and the Girose glacier, alongside majestic “stone giants” such as the Roche de la Muzelle and the Pic du Clapier du Peyron. The GR®54 has truly become the ultimate holy grail for hikers.
The 54
The GR®54, also known as the Tour de l’Oisans et des Écrins, is one of the most spectacular long-distance hiking trails in the French Alps. Stretching nearly 180 kilometres, it runs through the rugged and isolated landscapes of the Écrins massif and its national park.
This Alpine route, which winds through the departments of Isère and Hautes-Alpes, draws hiking enthusiasts with its dramatic scenery and technically challenging terrain.
The Isère section of the trail truly transports hikers to another world.
The main mission of the National Park, situated between the northern and southern Alps, is to protect exceptional biodiversity, while promoting sustainable regional development.
Its vocation is both ecological and educational: to preserve ecosystems and emblematic species such as the ibex and the golden eagle, but also to raise public awareness of the importance of nature.
The park supports local activities compatible with conservation, such as agro-pastoralism and eco-tourism, while at the same time acting as an open-air laboratory.
It also manages and maintains a significant portion of the GR®54.
This stage will also test your mountain skills, with a succession of handrails guiding you through a series of hamlets clinging to the mountainside.
The path then descends into the upper Ferrand valley, carved tightly into the schist, before reaching the Emparis mountain pastures.
Here, the terrain becomes gentler, giving you a moment to admire the splendour of the surroundings. From this verdant alpine steppe dotted with lakes, you now have a front-row seat to the sumptuous spectacle of the Meije, the Râteau and the Girose glacier. Some of the finest pages in regional mountaineering have been written among these sparkling peaks.
On the Emparis Plateau, you’ll often spot marmots, chamois and, of course, countless sheep. This is due to the tradition of summer grazing, where flocks are moved to high-altitude pastures to graze during the warmer months. This ancient practice, which dates back to prehistoric times, is still deeply rooted in the region, with over 200 pastoral units in the mountains.
Many huts and trails, originally built by shepherds for their three to four-month stays in the pastures, are now part of popular hiking routes, offering a unique glimpse into the region’s pastoral heritage.
The Écrins National Park encourages sustainable pastoral practices that respect local wildlife and ecosystems.
Bonnes pratiques
Encounters with herds of sheep are common, and it’s important to understand and respect the needs of pastoral activity to make sure this natural area is shared harmoniously by all.
Mountain passes to be conquered
Another gateway to the GR®54 in Isère is the Valjoufrey valley, located south of La Mure.
From Valsenestre or Le Désert-en-Valjoufrey, hikers seeking stunning views and a tough challenge will find both. This area lies deep in the wildest parts of the Écrins massif, and exploring such rugged terrain is well worth the effort.
The climbs are long and tough, starting with the Col de Vaurze on the border with the Hautes-Alpes, then tackling the summits of Col de Côte Belle and the iconic Col de la Muzelle, which towers like a dark, impenetrable rampart on the horizon.
The ascent begins at the foot of the stone giants, the Roche de la Muzelle and the Pic du Clapier du Peyron, and leads up over 50 increasingly narrow switchbacks carved into the schist.
Une aventure à la carte
Anyone embarking on the GR®54 can choose to complete the entire trail or explore just a section for a shorter adventure.
Regardless of what you choose, the Isère section leaves a lasting impression, offering both a sense of accomplishment and a deep connection with nature.
After this intense moment, we descend to a haven of peace: the tranquil shores of Lac de la Muzelle, home to a welcoming refuge. Just one final pass remains before reaching Lac de Lauvitel, the largest jewel of the Oisans massif. Above the lake lies an inaccessible valley, a site for scientific research by the Écrins National Park since 1995.
Nestled in the heart of the Écrins National Park, this protected area is unique in France.
Established in 1995, it holds the rare “integral reserve” status, meaning it is completely off-limits to the public to preserve its delicate ecosystem.
Surrounding Lake Lauvitel, the reserve boasts a wealth of biodiversity, including rare species and pristine Alpine landscapes, creating an ideal environment for research.
The area serves as a natural laboratory for scientists, offering an exceptional opportunity to study the evolution of flora and fauna free from human interference.
On average, the entire route is usually completed in about 15 stages, with breaks at high-altitude refuges managed by dedicated caretakers.
These caretakers prepare wholesome, local meals and maintain the refuge, while providing hikers with information about the trail, conditions, and potential hazards.
Some stages lead to charming villages like Besse, Villard d’Arène and Valsenestre, that bear witness to the way people have adapted to the mountains showcasing authentic mountain architecture which locals have crafted from local materials.
