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Grande randonnée Traversée de la Chartreuse: panoramas & nature
Nestled between Grenoble and Chambéry, the Chartreuse Regional Nature Park is a true wilderness haven, framed by stunning limestone cliffs. Here, expansive forests give way to alpine meadows blanketed in vibrant wildflowers, creating a beautiful tapestry of contrasts.
As you hike through the park, you’ll be rewarded with breathtaking panoramas that showcase the dramatic landscape. Whether you choose to follow a loop or traverse the massif, each path reveals the park’s remarkable blend of rugged terrain and delicate mountain flora.
Long enclosed within its natural ramparts, the Chartreuse remained isolated until the expansion of the Carthusian Order brought pilgrims and visitors to its monastery. With the development of communications, tourism began to grow at the start of the 20th century. Fortunately, the Chartreuse has managed to preserve its character, maintaining a model of thoughtful, moderate development that strives to limit the impact of tourism on the natural environment. This careful balance is a delight for hikers.
Hiking à la carte
In this pristine environment, rich in extraordinary biodiversity, the hiker is truly king. Countless footpaths lead through a landscape that is both soothing—featuring majestic forests and alpine meadows—and awe-inspiring, with rocky escarpments accessible via vertiginous belays, reserved for experienced and well-equipped walkers. Long-distance hikers and enthusiasts of 2- or 3-day micro-adventures can design their own itineraries using the various signposts along the way.
Take the bus to the start
As for us, we opted for a tailor-made outing, taking the bus and combining different signposts: GR®9, GR® de Pays and local footpaths. After a journey of just 20 minutes from Grenoble town centre, bus 62 dropped us off in the heart of the village of Le Sappey-en-Chartreuse. Just 200 metres away, the GR®9 is within easy reach. The path then climbs up in the shade of the trees, passing through a meadow used as summer pasture by local animals.
Car-free walks
Shepherd’s hut
After a winding climb, we arrive in a meadow, with the eastern cliffs of Chamechaude towering above us. As the highest point in the massif at 2082m, the sheer scale of the cliffs is truly overwhelming. At the base of the meadow lies the Habert de Chamechaude, a shepherd’s hut that welcomes walkers outside the summer grazing season. Equipped with picnic tables and a stove, it can accommodate up to twenty people.
Bivouac or cabin?
Walking days are structured around evening stopovers, where you can choose between an open-air bivouac to truly connect with nature or a rustic cabin for an authentic experience. The Chartreuse offers both options. Scattered throughout the massif are small, rustic cabins that vary in comfort and equipment. While their amenities can be basic, they evoke a sense of childhood adventure. Picture a stove for warmth in a simple stone cabin, an old table lit by candlelight, bunk beds and a well outside for water – truly pastoral in every sense!
Cliffside walk
The following day, we set off to climb the Dent de Crolles, an imposing limestone fortress that dominates the Grésivaudan valley. The GR®9 leads us to the Col des Ayes, crossing a meadow filled with alpine flowers bearing intriguing names: bladder campion, yarrow, alpine scabious, hedgenettle and bistort. As we ascend the west face of the Dent de Crolles, the path becomes steeper, but cables provide support, ensuring a safe climb. We pass the ‘trou du Glaz,’ the main entrance to the Dent de Crolles’ underground network – a caving paradise with nearly 70 km of galleries.
Tough terrain & sleepy marmots
Finally, we emerge onto the Dent de Crolles plateau, at the southern end of the Nature Reserve. Continuing north along a challenging path, we pass through breathtaking landscapes: limestone pavements, rocky crags, dense forests and lush alpine meadows framed by towering white limestone cliffs. Along the way, the whistling marmots alert us to their presence, though they remain well hidden. It was during a break at the Bellefont pass that we had the chance to observe a family of marmots that was a little less cautious.
A reserve for flora and fauna
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700 plant species
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75 bird species
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43 mammal species
Back to the city
After this incredible introduction, we had to pause our hike at the gateway to the Savoie to catch a bus back. Two more days would be needed to finish our journey – and even more to fully experience the diverse landscapes, rich biodiversity and unique cultural heritage of this massif. As Stendhal aptly described it, the ‘Emerald of the Alps’ is the perfect destination for hikers seeking natural beauty, breathtaking views, and absolute tranquillity.