For two days, we follow the red and white markings of the GR®91, the Grande Traversée du Vercors, a 61 km trail that crosses Isère to Châtillon-en-Diois in the Drôme. This slow-paced adventure transforms into a journey of reflection, connecting us to the essence of time, water and nature in all its grandeur and intricate details.
Start of the GR®91
On the GR®91, the transition between town and country is a smooth one. Leaving the bustling metropolis of Grenoble behind, we arrive in Saint-Nizier-du-Moucherotte, a charming village perched at an altitude of 1,139 metres in the Vercors, where our walk begins. To rejoin the GR®91, we stroll through the village and pause in front of the beautiful Romanesque church, with its Alpine belltower and four stone belfries.
The search for water
The Vercors plateau guards its water carefully. Fountains and springs are rare along the route, so it’s essential to think ahead and identify all the accessible and usable springs on the map. Once you’re prepared, you’re ready to explore the Vercors with its vast plateaux, towering cliffs, mountain pastures, ridges, passes and forests that stretch from north to south, creating a natural link between the Alps and Provence.
As we climb the path, we pass the Trois Pucelles, an iconic rock formation in the Vercors. These three peaks, rising gracefully into the sky, are the silent guardians of the valley. According to legend, they were three young girls transformed into stone by a spell. Along the way, the air is infused with the characteristic scent of mid-mountain undergrowth.
The trail winds through dense forests, where the sunlight filters through the thick foliage in a dance of shadows. As we gain altitude, the vegetation clears, revealing breathtaking panoramas of the surrounding landscape..
We stop to take a deep breath and soak up the raw beauty of these mountains, silent witnesses to thousands of years of geological history.
Abundant flora, a burst of colour
Beneath the forest canopy or in the open meadows, the flora is a dazzling tapestry of colour and form. The delicate Alpine chickweed with its white petals streaked with purple, the shaggy pulsatilla (or pasqueflower) with its feathery dried fruit, the unusual wood cow wheat with its yellow flowers and purple bracts, and the striking purple hues of the spiked rampion. A bumblebee darts between the frayed petals of the electric purple knapweed in search of pollen.
As we reach Moucherotte, a panoramic peak much loved by the people of Grenoble, we take a break. Below, an educational shelter offers visitors an overview of the geological history of the Alps and the Moucherotte itself. On the walls, quirky frames feature animals disguised as humans, expressing their ecological and humanist reflections.
En route to Lans-en-Vercors, we reach the Ramées plateau, where 800 ewes frolic under the watchful eye of five sheepdogs. White rock formations emerge from the green meadows, dotted with shrubs. In the distance, to the south, the path reveals itself, giving us a glimpse of the route and the magnificent scenery that awaits us on the next stage.
We gradually descend and reach the Auberge des Allières, famous for its delicious tarte aux myrtilles (blueberry tart). We plan to bivouac a little further on, near the Font Froide spring we spotted earlier. In this region where water is scarce, we hope the spring will have a sufficient supply of water. Set below the path and protected from local wildlife by a wooden fence, the thin trickle from the spring slowly fills our water bottle. Sadly, the area is not suitable for bivouacking.
With two litres of water to spare, we decide to set up camp away from any springs. We find a suitable spot higher up, nestling between Lans-en-Vercors and Villard-de-Lans, where we spend a restful night under the stars.
A curious chamois
We set off along the famous Gobert trail. Arriving in the Combe Noire, we’re greeted by the first rays of sunlight illuminating the rocks at the end of the ridge.
Looking down, we spot a lone chamois, fearless and curious, less than 20 metres away. Our eyes meet in a silent exchange, before he nimbly descends the scree, graceful and fast.
With no telephone or watch to guide us, we let our bodies and our tiredness decide what time to go to bed. A soothing herbal tea made from sprigs of wild thyme picked along the trail helps us fall asleep. A few hours later, under the open sky, we awake to a breathtaking array of stars. We count three shooting stars before going back to sleep and rise early, guided by the rhythm of nature. The sound of distant cowbells in the valley below, the impatient chirping of a wren and the first light of dawn signal the start of the day. It’s 5.30am, it’s early, but the mountains are never more beautiful than at sunrise and sunset. Onwards and upwards!
The new call of the forest
Below us lies the Roybon hut, an open-access refuge that can comfortably accommodate up to 15 hikers. Picnic tables and a wood-burning stove add to the comfort of this cosy refuge.
We gradually make our way towards Villard-de-Lans and then Corrençon-en-Vercors, passing through the picturesque Fauge valley and its charming stream. While waiting for the bus back to Grenoble, we enjoy some delicious home-made pastries from the Aux 2 Sœurs café. After this fulfilling and rejuvenating experience in nature, we also indulge in the comforts of the city and its essential amenities.
But we’re still tempted to continue our journey towards the Hauts-Plateaux du Vercors National Nature Reserve, with its otherworldly atmosphere and the imposing Grand Veymont peak dominating the massif.
