The Huguenots were French Protestants forced out of France by Catholic authorities after the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685 by King Louis XIV. Today, the legacy of this exile is preserved in the form of a historical hiking trail, GR®965, which winds its way through the stunning Trièves region in the south of the Isère department.
From Percy to Mens, there’s no need to choose between history and nature – this trail offers both.
The Huguenots travelled a great distance during their exodus. From the Drôme village of Poët-Laval to Bad Karlshafen in Germany, the 1,600 kilometres they covered are now recognised as a cultural route by the Council of Europe.
In Isère, the route winds from the Col de Menée, which connects the Diois and Trièves regions at an altitude of 1,457 metres, to Barraux, at the gateway to Savoie.
Yellow signpost
This section of the route begins in the village of Le Percy, perched on a small promontory clearly visible from the RD 1075, and leads to Mens, a key centre in Protestant history in France.
The path is relatively gentle, winding through valleys and hills on smooth, undulating terrain. The elevation change is minimal, with the starting and finishing altitudes almost identical, so you’ll climb as much as you descend.
Follow the yellow signposts, often accompanied by the double red and white markers. Occasionally, you’ll also see the silhouette of a Huguenot on the signposts, serving as a reminder of the route’s historical significance.
Le Percy greets walkers with a car park at the entrance to the village. Dominated by the old Saint-Barthélémy Church, whose porch and choir date back to the 13th century, the village is also home to six pools, where the sound of water creates a soothing melody. Le Percy is also home to several typical Trièves houses, easily recognisable by their sloping roofs covered with flaked tiles made from local clay. Their distinctive croupes, small triangular roof slopes that connect the two main sections, add to the unique architectural charm of the village.
If you arrive on foot from the Col de Menée, you’ll find places to sleep and eat in Le Percy. The village offers a restaurant, the Café de la Page and Chez Lulu communal gîtes. It also has a lively Tuesday evening market, especially in summer, where you can buy fruit, vegetables, bread, honey, wine and cheese from local producers who are passionate about their region.
To the south-east, the Grand-Ferrand Pyramid stands as one of the most prominent features of the Obiou Massif. This striking summit will accompany us for the rest of the journey.
Between Mont-Aiguille and Grand-Ferrand
The GR®965 trail winds between these houses at the southern entrance of the village, descending towards the Rif Perron stream. A wooden bridge leads you across it to the other side of the valley, towards the village of Monestier-du-Percy. Divided into several hamlets, the village is crowned by a striking round bell tower clad in grey slate.
From here, the view of the mountains is breathtaking in every direction. Behind you, the eastern slope of the Vercors is dominated by the iconic silhouette of Mont Aiguille. To the south-east, the Grand-Ferrand Pyramid, one of the most prominent features of the Obiou Massif, will accompany us for the rest of the journey.
A wonderful panorama
The Chemin des Huguenots leads towards the hamlet of Les Bayles, tracing a wide semicircle across the fields towards the Serre des Bayles. It then descends into the gorges carved by the Ebron, winding through pine and oak woods. After crossing the Moulin du Recours bridge, the path straightens, passing vineyards and cutting across the large agricultural plain beneath the peaceful village of Prébois. From there, you follow the Veyre Eycour path, soon returning to a bucolic rhythm.
The path winds through meadows and woodland, offering an awe-inspiring panorama, with silence only occasionally interrupted by the sound of a bird.
You cross the small Agnès stream before reaching the old farmhouses of Mas Martinenc. We are now in the Mens area, the final stretch of our walk.
On an open hillside, the path faces Obiou and “Calvin’s Cap,” the nickname given to Châtel, an elongated mountain that resembles the Protestant headdress. After passing through another patch of undergrowth – quite muddy today due to yesterday’s storm – the path returns to open fields, alternating between sections along the RD 254 and sunken lanes lined with hedges.
Ahead, new vineyards crown the hilltops: winegrowing is making a comeback in Trièves!
Mens, the historic capital
After a few more patches of sun and shade, we arrive in Mens, the final stop on this section of the Chemin des Huguenots. This charming town, lovely in all seasons, is home to two churches, reflecting both Catholic and Protestant traditions.
At the heart of the village stands the superb market hall, which hosts a bustling market every Saturday morning. It’s a pleasure to wander through the maze of ancient streets and eventually find yourself on the terrace of the Café des Arts. With its wood panelling, 19th-century frescoes, marble, wooden tables and mirrors, the café is listed as a historic monument.
