It’s a legendary route and a deeply human adventure that spans over 1,000 years. The roads to Santiago de Compostela also cross Isère, offering a journey through its sumptuous landscapes via the GR®65. Whether you’re a pilgrim or simply a walker, these paths provide a peaceful, introspective way to discover the riches of the north of the département. We spent some time walking them.
Walking the Chemin de Saint-Jacques (Camino de Santiago), the ancient pilgrimage route leading to the shrine of St. James in Santiago de Compostela, offers a deeply emotional journey unlike any other.
Whether you’re a believer or not, the historic significance of the route is felt with every step. In Isère, you can experience this unique path for 120 km along the Via Gebennensis, which links Geneva to Le Puy-en-Velay.
From the village of Aoste in the east to Clonas-sur-Varèze in the west, the trail winds through historic towns and villages, offering views over lakes, crossing streams, winding past ponds, climbing hills and entering cool, leafy forests. The call of this legendary route is simply too hard to resist.
One of the first things you’ll notice when you begin the journey is the distinctive signposting: the white or yellow scallop shell against a blue background.
By following this symbol, you become part of a centuries-old tradition, joining the vast community of pilgrims who, since 834 AD, have journeyed across Europe for days and weeks in search of meaning, spirituality and deep connections.
Why do they undertake this journey? How do they feel? What motivates them? These are the questions that come to mind as we start our walk along the gently sloping path, winding through wheat fields and fallow land near Les Abrets.
Here, the hills are covered with deciduous forests, farmland, and pastures, home to charming villages and typical Dauphiné buildings.
These buildings are characterised by their pisé (rammed earth) or rolled pebble walls, often topped with pebble-tiled roofs. They stand as a testament to a construction technique dating back to the 13th, 19th and early 20th centuries.
These ancient, rustic houses continue to stand, preserving the region’s rich history.
Crosses, churches & beliefs
At some crossroads, wooden or metal crosses stand on beautiful stone plinths. At their foot, small stones, silent witnesses to the passage of pilgrims, keep their memory alive. Further along, a scallop shell is fixed to a chestnut stake, a timeless symbol of the route.
These customs combine superstition and spirituality, fetishism and faith.
In Valancogne, we met Jean-Baptiste, a man in his thirties, resting on the steps of the beautiful pebble church. With his feet raised, it was clear he was tired and had likely completed more stages than we had. He regretted wearing such chunky shoes but expressed excitement for his hike, which this year would conclude in Le Puy-en-Velay.
Alone, he cherishes the introspective side of walking, the break from the stress of daily life and the deep immersion in nature.
The aim of his journey? To slow down, reflect and question!
Ridges & a view of the lake
After Valancogne, the climb is steep but short. The slope soon eases and the path winds its way up a hill, unveiling views to the south towards the foothills of the Chartreuse and Vercors mountains. In the opposite direction, the landscape of green hills and plains stretches as far as the eye can see.
Further on, between two tall fern hedges, a beautiful turquoise expanse emerges: Lake Paladru, north of Voiron. The unique colour of its waters is due to the chalky lakebed. On a day like this, nothing quite beats the thought of a refreshing dip.
All along the route, historical treasures are plentiful, surrounded by unspoilt rural landscapes.
The Sylve-Bénite, an imposing stone building, stands as a testament to the establishment of the second Carthusian monastery in 1116. The Carthusian monks were responsible for the creation of numerous local ponds, which played a crucial role in draining the land, making it more suitable for farming. Very little remains of this vast complex, which was destroyed during the French Revolution.
However, the monumental Grange Dîmière, a little further down the road, is also part of this historic legacy. Fully restored in 1993, it is open to visitors and hosts temporary exhibitions such as Caroline Schmoll’s dreamlike ceramics during our visit, as well as performances, all under its spectacular 18-metre-high roof.
The next stage of our tour takes us to La Côte-Saint-André, the birthplace of Hector Berlioz. The museum dedicated to him, which is free to enter, promises to be another great discovery. But that’s for tomorrow.
For the moment, we leave the GR®65 behind and head towards the shores of Lake Charavines. The long-awaited dip in the lake, which we’ve been dreaming of since our hike over the Bois de Briche ridges, is finally within reach.
We can also spend the night here, allowing us to rest before setting off once again on this spiritual journey, rich in discoveries.
