La Dibona
La Dibona Is a huge rock of granite pointing up into the pure Oisans mountain air that attracts mountaineers from all over the world. Climbing on the sound rock of this elegant 300 m pyramidal monolith is varied, subtle and always hugely pleasurable.
Climbing these granite slabs in 14 or 15 pitches is an epoch in the life of a mountaineer.
The south face, the most attractive and also the most crowded, is a fine climb. The summit is reached via a combination of routes: the Madier direct south face route, the Boell normal south face route, the Berthet variant and the Stofer variant.
The Madier route, 50 years old and still going strong, has been partially re-equipped (belays on bolts, 2 points per pitch). The top of the Madier crack has been damaged, and the 5C has become a fairly committed 6A. A large friend needs to be installed.
Descend via Angelo Dibona's route, 2 or 3 abseils.
1st ascent: South Face by A. and J. Boell, A le Ray in 1935.
Topo - maps : TOP 25 3436 ET Meije Pelvoux.
"Oisans nouveau, Oisans sauvage" west book, Jean-Michel Cambon
Difficulty: D (Berthet-Boell route), TD (Madier route)
Duration: 6 hours
Horaires
Du 01/06/24 au 30/09/24
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Lundi :
Ouvert
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Mardi :
Ouvert
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Mercredi :
Ouvert
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Jeudi :
Ouvert
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Vendredi :
Ouvert
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Samedi :
Ouvert
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Dimanche :
Ouvert
Tarifs
Free of charge
S'y rendre
Latitude : 44.962429
Longitude : 6.24238
Altitude : 3130
S'y rendre
From Bourg d'Oisans, take the RD 1091 towards Briançon and then turn right onto the D530 to "Saint-Christophe - La Bérarde". Park on the left in Les Etages (after Saint Christophe) and follow the path up to the Refuge du Soreiller (1100 m height gain / around 3 hours).
Information mise à jour le 04/11/2024
par Oisans Tourisme
